Climbing South Sister in the Summer

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A SAMPLE CLIMB PROSPECTUS

SOUTH SISTER BY THE SOUTH RIDGE IN THE SUMMER

Climb: SOUTH SISTER BY THE SOUTH RIDGE IN THE SUMMER
Date: A flexible date, weather forecast dependant
Time: Leave the Devil’s Lake TH on Cascade Lakes Highway at 0600
Leaders: Every group has a leader and the leader should appoint an assistant
Goal: Climb as a group, reaching the summit together

South Sister, at 10,358 feet, is the highest of the Three Sisters, Broken Top and Mt. Bachelor. On a clear day, the surrounding peaks and Mt. Washington, Three Finger Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and peaks to the south can all be photographed from the summit block.

South Sister is volcanic. Built atop a basaltic base, the mountain is composed of soft andesite topped by a harder basaltic cone. The mountain is symmetrical in form and has a well preserved summit crater, in summer boasting the highest lake in Oregon. The mountain rebuilt itself on an ancient volcano which still protrudes from the east side, near the summit. Seven glaciers continue to erode the soft material of South Sister. You can climb just to the west of steep and dangerously crevassed Lewis Glacier, its beautiful glacial tarn appearing from under the heavy snows of Winter.

You can climb from Devils Lake following the summer climber’s trail past terminal moraines and beautiful Moraine Lake to the foot of Lewis Glacier. You can rest there at the edge of the glacial tarn before climbing on to the south rim of the volcano, then across the caldera to the summit block on the north east edge of the rim. The climb is a strenuous 5,000 foot, six mile one-way grunt to the summit and then a six mile return. Actual trail miles have been estimated at fifteen. Depending on the weather this hard summer climb can be delightful or dangerous from the effects of hyperthermia (heat exhaustion). Lowlanders can experience mild altitude sickness above 8,000 feet.

The purpose of this adventure should be for every-one in the group to have a fine time, not to put an individual or two on the summit. Climb together as a group, the stronger climbers voluntarily carrying any group gear. That being said, there are two good waiting points for those whose bodies may not be up to their high spirits They must rejoin the group. No one may descend alone; return to the cars as a group. Remember, it is not the mountain or the route, it is the recollections of the shared adventure that we will take with us.

Heat exhaustion and “bonking” are the biggest problems we may encounter. If it is a hot day, at least three (3) quarts of water must be carried by each climber for our planned 5-6 hour ascent and 4 to 5 hour descent. Bring an extra quart in the car for drinking just before and immediately after the climb. Use Platypus or Nalgene bags! Nalgene plastic bottles weight six ounces empty. Three water bottles weigh over a bulky pound empty for our down hill hike; three Platypus bags weigh 3 ounces empty.

If it is a very sunny day most people will sweat water and minerals and need to replace lost electrolytes: Gator-aid is an answer: place the powder in at least two of the three quarts of water. Plan to eat about 200 calories of simple or complex carbohydrates (a ClifBar) each hour with some water to avoid running out of glycogen stored in your big muscles and “bonking” or “hitting the wall”. See our Seminar Notes on nutrition and hydration. Try for a slow but steady 1,000' per hour average rate of climb, plus the fifteen mile hike.

Dark sun glasses are a must. Sun screen SPF 30 to 45, applied before you leave home is necessary. Apply the sun screen to the underside of nose and ears to avoid serious burns from reflected sunlight. Repeat applications during the climb. Experience tells us that the sun will burn the right side of our face and neck on the ascent and again in the afternoon. Outdoor Research (OR) and others make light sunscreen hats with neck protection. You will need this serious sun protection even on an overcast day.

Trail shoes or gore-tex style boots should be sufficient. Make sure they have aggressive soles (Vibram?) for the gravelly scree. You might wear short gaiters to keep the scree out of your strong shoes or light boots.

Wear light nylon pants and a long sleeved light nylon shirt and head and neck sun protection. Bring a very light insulating layer and a wind layer for your upper body. A strong cold jet stream often rakes the summit. Shorts are not a good idea, but wear them if you must. Watch out for sunburn on the backs of your legs.

If the forecast weather is cold with possible precipitation and wind, come prepared for the exertion of the climb and also for possible inactivity as we might have to sit-out an emergency, high on the mountain. If an afternoon thunder storm with lightening is forecast, climb another day.

You will need a strong day pack with a belt to carry your possible six pounds of water, sun screen, ten essentials, extra layers and ClifBars and bagels. Your pack with everything you need (the Ten Essential Systems) should weigh about four pounds, without your disappearing six pounds of water.

Hiking poles are very helpful in distributing some seventeen percent of the up-hill work to the muscles of your upper body. Your strong shoes or light boots provide a platform for kicking steps in the scree and also accommodate your fifteen miles of hiking. You leaders should stop for blister care and other adjustments. Just tell them!

Technical skills are not required, but be aware that the final push to the top is a steep 1,000 foot section of scree overlying a hard volcanic layer, just made for slipping. Again, poles help a great deal, going up and going down. Gifted Mountaineers can run the scree, jumping and sliding from point to point like a mogul skier. (I have never been able to do that.)

Do your dog a favor and leave your friend at home. Or consider having to carry your exhausted dog down the mountain with bloody pads and torn nails.

Bring your pack with three quarts of water and the Ten Essential Systems to the trailhead, ready to go. Wear your boots or strong trail shoes for the short drive up the hill to the trail head. Your pack should not weigh much more than about 10 pounds, including six pounds of disappearing water. Check you pack weight on a scale to test your skill at selecting gear for Fit, Experienced, Light and Fast fun and adventure on South Sister!

On Belay!
Robert Speik
Copyright © 2008-2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

So you think these suggestions are overkill?

Rescuers looking for three lost near South Sister
Posted: Aug 31, 2008 11:58 PM PDT
From KTVZ.COM news sources
Deschutes County Sheriff's Search and Rescue crews worked late in the night Sunday to find and assist three people near the South Sister who apparently lost their way - and also reported some late-August snowfall.

Dispatchers said the three people were on their way down when it began to snow and they apparently lost their way.

At last report, SAR crews said they believed they were close to the missing trio. We'll have more details as they become available.

The rescue effort came amid cold temperatures for this time of year. The National Weather Service issued a freeze warning for Central Oregon through 8 a.m. Monday.

Redmond plunged to a record 29 degrees early Sunday, smashing its old record low for Aug. 31 of 32, set back in 1964.

http://www.ktvz.com/global/story.asp?s=8930865

Said they were heading back down when snow began to fall
By Barney Lerten, KTVZ.COM
A late-August snowfall almost proved tragic, but a cell phone was a godsend for three hikers who became lost on the South Sister Trail Sunday evening. It took searchers nearly eight hours to find the three - wet, cold and tired, but otherwise alright, officials said.

Deschutes County 911 got a call shortly before 7 p.m. from the hikers, seeking assistance, said sheriff's Sgt. Scott Shelton.

The caller said they were trying to return to the Green Lakes trailhead in the Three Sisters Wilderness Area when they became unsure of their location, Shelton said. The caller also said they were at about 8,600 feet in elevation, and that the weather had changed, and it was now snowing.

"The hikers also had limited cell phone contact, as the phone they were carrying was losing battery power," Shelton wrote in a news release Monday.

A U.S. Forest Service employee in the general area began the search before Sheriff's Search and Rescue teams mobilized, Shelton said. That Forest Service worker eventually found the hiker.

Sheriff's deputies and nine initial SAR searchers responded to the area, Shelton said, adding that deputies had intermittent phone contact with the hikers throughout the night, until their cell pone finally ran out of battery power.

The hikers were located around 2:30 a.m., between the Lewis and Clark glaciers at about 9,050 feet in elevation, Shelton said. They "were wet, cold and tired, with no apparent injuries," Shelton said - but their location sparked some concern, due to nearby unstable ground and cliffs.

The rescuers provided warm, dry clothing, shelter and food to the stranded hikers, the sergeant said. Once stabilized, they were assisted down the trail, to the area of Moraine Lake, where they were met by members of the SAR horse team.

By late morning, they were being escorted the rest of the way down the trail, to the Devils Lake trailhead, Shelton said, adding that 17 SAR members had been involved in the operation.

The rescue effort came amid very cold temperatures for this time of year. The National Weather Service issued a freeze warning for Central Oregon through 8 a.m. Monday.

Redmond plunged to a record 29 degrees early Sunday, smashing its old record low for Aug. 31 of 32, set back in 1964.

http://www.ktvz.com/global/story.asp?s=8930865

Trail Tips for September 10, 2008 by Chris Sabo, Trails/Wilderness, Deschutes National Forest

"Just a reminder for this time of year, the weather can change in short order as plenty of trail users found out over Labor Day weekend. Well over 100 South Sister hikers found out just how fast as the morning of Aug. 31 started out cool but sunny and ended up with snow, winds and low visibility developing at higher and even some mid elevations. Snow flurries were reported that evening down to 5,400’. Most South Sister hikers opted on the side of safety and turned around before reaching the summit, but a few did persist. The earlier hikers made the summit before visibility dropped with snow starting falling about 1 pm. Most hikers bailing after the snow started were not prepared for the conditions".

"Three hikers chose to continue to the summit late in the afternoon in degrading conditions; they too were not prepared for snow/wet/windy conditions. On reaching the summit at about 5 pm in near zero visibility, they become disoriented and were unable to locate the trail they had just climbed. The trio came off the top somewhere to the west of the trail and soon realized they were lost. About 2:30 am (8 hours after calling in on a cell phone that ultimately lost battery life) a Deschutes County Sheriff Search and Rescue team and Forest Service located the hikers who were wet, cold, lost and stuck at the base of a cliff. In the end, they were warmed, recovered and were led out by rescuers after sunrise.

The situation could have been quite different had one or two of the hikers taken a fall and been injured or killed, stumbling around in the dark with snow flurries. Fortunately for them, where they were stopped by a cliff was also a good bivy spot mostly out of the weather. Had they spent much more time wandering in the cold and dark, advanced hypothermia and frostbite likely would have been the price they paid. Again, these hikers were not fully prepared for the conditions, hiking in mostly cotton clothing and light weather gear and pushing the conditions".

"These recent accidents are a reminder to all trail users, whether by foot, paddle, peddle or hoof, to take extra care in being prepared for expected and unexpected conditions. If the trail or water you are using is unfamiliar to you, seek out the conditions and what you’re up against and if it’s even doable. Also remember to keep your limits and the limits of others in your group in mind.

This time of year the days are getting shorter and nights colder; adverse weather, even snow, can be come in with little warning.

Think about if you were forced to spend a night out with freezing temperatures, do you have the gear and knowledge on any given trip? Did you remember to file a “flight plan” with a friend or family member and what they should do should you not return on time? What if you or someone in your party are injured or fall ill, can you handle it? Cell phones and other high tech communication devices are helpful and even life savers, when they work and you have reception. If they fail, are you prepared?

Search and Rescue teams work hard to reach those in need in a timely manner. But, they may take several hours or more to organize and access many remote (even some close in) locations. If directions are fuzzy or not known, weather poor, it could be a day or several before locating those in need. Again, in some instances be prepared to spend a night out".
--Chris Sabo

Learn important lessons from this experience

So you thought our suggestions for climbing South Sister were "overkill"?
1. Each person should always take their cell phone, fully charged. (Leave your cell turned off and carry it in a warm inside pocket. Leave it turned off but check for cell towers periodically - Read More.)
2. A GPS will not help if you do not know how to use it, and if you do not have a USGS or equal topo map of your adventure. These folks did not mention a map, but said they had a compass and a GPS but apparently did not know how to use them.
3. If you leave a mountain top just a few degrees off of the ridge that you used to ascend, you may be miles off at the bottom of the mountain. Always mark your entre/exit to the summit plateau.
4. Never wear cotton clothing on a long hike or climb - it gets wet and sucks heat from your body at a rate some 20 times that of bare skin alone. Note: The father of the two sons with him on this mis-adventure said they were wearing cotton clothing and that they got very cold in the blowing snow at 2:30 am. He said they had a compass and a GPS but did not mention a map or the skills to use them together.
5. If you are not prepared with the seasonal Ten Essential Systems, give up the summit and return another day. The summit will always be there to enjoy during your life-time.
Read our "Media Advisory below!

Our special thanks to Barney Lerten, KTVZ.COM, for featuring this story. Barney has noted the use of cell phones to resolve accidents and strandings in our backcountry, for several years. Please let him know you appreciate his responsible journalism!

Recent Federal secrecy and privacy guidelines (HIPPA) prevent any persons who may be a "care giver" from giving out even the most basic information to the public, including the traditional names and home towns of the patients, what happened and what injuries they sustained. For instance: We called Redmond Fire Department about another rock climbing accident at Smith Rock and we were told by the "Public Information Officer" that we could have only the information that Redmond Fire and Rescue had picked up a patient at Smith and transported that patient to the hospital in Redmond. (We did find the contact information for the "patient" (the accident victim) and we will pass along a good bit of basic Smith Rock climbing experience in a few days on this website.)
--Webmeister Speik

Read about yet another party of three unprepared, off trail and stranded high on South Sister

Click on this link to read the full report: http://traditionalmountaineering.org/News_Stranded_SouthSister_ThreeHikers_07-2010.htm

A suggested minimum standard Media Advisory for all backcountry travelers

"We would like to take this opportunity to ask our visitors to the backcountry of Eastern Oregon to plan for the unexpected. Each person should dress for the forecast weather and take minimum extra clothing protection from a drop in temperature and possible rain or snow storm or an unexpected cold wet night out, insulation from the wet ground or snow, high carbohydrate snacks, two quarts of water, a map and compass and optional inexpensive GPS and the skills to use them, and a fully charged ordinary digital cell phone. Carry the traditional personal "Ten Essentials Systems" in a light weight day pack sized for the individual, the trip, the season and the forecast weather.

Visitors are reminded to tell a Responsible Person where they are going, where they plan to park, when they will be back and to make sure that person understands that they are relied upon to call 911 at a certain time if the backcountry traveler has not returned"

THE MISSION of TraditionalMountaineering.org

"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, on and off trail hiking, scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land, all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."

TraditionalMountaineering is founded on the premise that "He who knows naught, knows not that he knows naught", that exploring the hills and summitting peaks have dangers that are hidden to the un-informed and that these inherent risks can be in part, identified and mitigated by mentoring: information, training, wonderful gear, and knowledge gained through the experiences of others.

The value of TraditionalMountaineering to our Friends and Subscribers is the selectivity of the information we provide, and its relevance to introducing folks to informed hiking on the trail, exploring off the trail, mountain travel and Leave-no-Trace light-weight bivy and backpacking, technical travel over steep snow, rock and ice, technical glacier travel and a little technical rock climbing on the way to the summit. Whatever your capabilities and interests, there is a place for everyone in traditional alpine mountaineering.

WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can, only in part, be mitigated

ABOUT ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
The Ten Essential Systems
Our Mission

THE ESSENTIAL PAPERWORK
Suggested Leader Guidelines    Suggested information you should receive from your organized Leaders
Sign-in Agreements, Waivers and Prospectus     This pdf form will need to be signed by you at the trail head
Sample Prospectus    Make sure every leader tells you what the group is going to do; print a copy for your "responsible person"
Participant Information Form    This pdf form can be printed and mailed or handed to the Leader if requested or required
Emergency and Incident Report Form    Copy and print this form. Carry two copies with your Essentials
Participant and Group First Aid Kit    Print this form. Make up your own first aid essentials (kits)

ESSENTIAL PERSONAL CLOTHING AND GEAR
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack? Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?

YOUR ESSENTIAL DAY PACKS
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?    Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?     Photos?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?    Photos?

YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering    4 pdf pages

CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP? Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing? 4 pages in pdf
What should I eat before a day of aerobic climbing?

REAL SURVIVAL STRATEGIES
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
FREE Clinic on Real Survival Strategies and Staying Found with Map, Compass and GPS together
What do you carry in your winter day and summit pack?
Why are "Snow Caves" dangerous?
Why are "Space Blankets" dangerous?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
How can you avoid Hypothermia?
Missing climbers on Mount Hood, one dies of exposure, two believed killed in fall
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Olympic Champion Rulon Gardner lost on snowmobile!
Lost Olympic hockey player looses feet to cold injury
Expert skier lost five days near resort in North Cascades without map, compass, gps or cell phone
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
How can you learn the skills of snow camping? Prospectus

BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry travel and mountaineering?
What is a PLB?
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid? pdf
What is the UTM Grid? six pdf pages
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes? six pdf pages

ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest? 6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?

AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals? pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars? pdf file

SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?

TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness? Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness? Photos?
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon? Alphabetically?