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Gear used by Steve House and Vince Anderson on Nanga Parbat

Steve House shows the gear he used with Vince Anderson on Nanga Parbat
"Patagonia Alpine Ambassador Steve House goes through the gear he and partner Vince Anderson used on their alpine-style first ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in September, 2005. They were awarded the 2005 Piolet d’Or Award, recognizing the significance of this innovative route climbed in a clean and committed style.

Patagonia ambassador Steve House first laid eyes on the Rupal Face as a 19-year-old member of a Slovenian mountaineering expedition to the Schell Route, then considered the standard route to Nanga Parbat’s summit. Since then he’s been working to return and attempt the line up the central pillar of the Rupal Face.

In 2004, Steve and partner, Bruce Miller, made that attempt, reaching 25,000 feet before Steve’s altitude sickness forced them back. Colorado native Vince Anderson climbed his first mountain at age five and has only looked skyward since. Equally at home on rock, ice or mixed routes, he’s led expeditions in North and South America, Europe and Asia, and has summited 8,000-meter peaks in the Tibetan and Pakistani Himalaya. He has full IFMGA certification and is the owner and lead guide of Skyward Mountaineering."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIkmYiwbZWg 

 

 

Patagonia clothing system used by Steve House on Nanga Parbat

Steve House: Patagonia Clothing System for Nanga Parbat
"Patagonia Alpine Ambassador Steve House goes through the clothing he wore on his and Vince Anderson's alpine-style first ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in September, 2005. They were awarded the 2005 Piolet d'Or Award, recognizing the significance of this innovative route climbed in a clean and committed style.

Patagonia ambassador Steve House first laid eyes on the Rupal Face as a 19-year-old member of a Slovenian mountaineering expedition to the Schell Route, then considered the standard route to Nanga Parbat's summit. Since then he's been working to return and attempt the line up the central pillar of the Rupal Face. In 2004, Steve and partner, Bruce Miller, made that attempt, reaching 25,000 feet before Steve's altitude sickness forced them back.

Colorado native Vince Anderson climbed his first mountain at age five and has only looked skyward since. Equally at home on rock, ice or mixed routes, he's led expeditions in North and South America, Europe and Asia, and has summited 8,000-meter peaks in the Tibetan and Pakistani Himalaya. He has full IFMGA certification and is the owner and lead guide of Skyward Mountaineering."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoACZH2N9gE 

 

Note: These fine instructional videos created for Patagonia by Steve House are better than a thousand words! We will bring you more links to similar videos soon.
--On Belay! Robert Speik
Copyright© 2000-2007 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

 

 

 

 

Read more . . .
Seminar notes for Lite Pack'n Gear  four pdf pages
Seminar notes on Hypothermia  also pdf
Patagonia clothing in Bend Oregon
Books about traditional alpine mountaineering  three pdf pages

 ESSENTIAL PERSONAL CLOTHING AND GEAR
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?   
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?    

 YOUR ESSENTIAL DAY PACKS
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?      Photos?    
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?    
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?      Photos?

 YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf  
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?   
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering    4 pdf pages

 CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?    Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?   4 pages in pdf  
What should I eat before a day of aerobic climbing?

REAL SURVIVAL STRATEGIES
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
FREE Clinic on Real Survival Strategies and Staying Found with Map, Compass and GPS together
What do you carry in your winter day and summit pack?
Why are "Snow Caves" dangerous?
Why are "Space Blankets" dangerous?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
How can you avoid Hypothermia?
Missing climbers on Mount Hood, one dies of exposure, two believed killed in fall
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Olympic Champion Rulon Gardner lost on snowmobile!
Lost Olympic hockey player looses feet to cold injury

Expert skier lost five days near resort in North Cascades without map, compass, gps or cell phone
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
How can you learn the skills of snow camping?   Prospectus

 BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry travel and mountaineering?
What is a PLB?
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?    
What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?   
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?  pdf
What is the UTM Grid?  six pdf pages    
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?    
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?  six pdf pages

 ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?   6 pdf pages  
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?

 AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?    pdf table 
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?   pdf

 SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?    

 TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?     Photos?    
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?    Photos?   
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?   Alphabetically?

 TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
Who is Reinhold Messner?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?

 

From Harvey Manning's One Step at a Time
Aerobic mountaineering from Harvey Manning's classic book One Step at a Time, 1972

 

 

 

    WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated

 

The Three Sisters and Broken Top
South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister (the sinister sister) and Broken Top in the Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon USA
Photo Copyright© 2004-2007 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.