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Frequently asked questions about traditional alpine mountaineering
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 CHRONOLOGICAL POSTINGS
Tree well and deep snow safety hazards
Local Deaths Can Inspire Safer Rappels
Mazama Summer climb schedule for 2015
Which water treatment method is best for this trip?
Op-Ed, Good maps are vital to the wilderness experience
Whoops: GPS locator switches on- sparks search
"The Avalanche at Tunnel Creek", a New York Times Special Report
Avalanche Risk in the Spring   a one page pdf file
Black Diamond talks about carabiners and more
The Mountaineers offer 24 traditional Classes and Seminars in 2013
Reinhold Messner speaks to the AAC
FCC requirements for providing mobile phone geographic locations
Prepare for the worst before setting out in the winter
How can I prevent, recognize and treat Hypothermia?
Training for Alpine Climbing by Scott Johnston
An overnight base camp high on Mount Hood in May, 2010
Jim Ratz, climbing Leader, dies in climbing accident
What is a Reepschnur rappel?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How can I self-belay a rappel?   
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
Traditional mountaineering rappel practice at meadow Camp
Fatal climbing accident at Meadow Crags near Bend Oregon
Mazama Climb Schedule for 2012
Tick Talk
What about spiders?
What about the SPOT and DeLorme Handheld GPS With Satellite Communicator?
Gear grist, an article written for The Mountaineer, the monthly newsletter of The Mountaineers
Robert Speik writes: "Use your digital cell in the backcountry" for The Mountaineer
Beta on GPS units from SuperTopo
Lithium batteries recommended for GPS backcountry use
What about climbing Mt. Washington in the summer?
Avalanche avoidance is a practical approach to avalanche safety
Staying found in the backcountry with map, compass and GPS
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?    
What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?   
SPOT Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
Getting ready for the outdoors in the winter requires a lot of gear
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
Gear and clothing used by Steve House and Vince Anderson on Nanga Parbat   2 short videos
Op-Ed: Bulletin survival recommendations don’t offer full picture
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
How do mobile phones assist mountaineering and backcountry rescues?
What is a PLB?
What is the best Map for mountaineering and backcountry travel?   
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?    
What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?    
What is the UTM Grid?  2 pdf pages    
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?   
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?    
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf  
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?   
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?   4 pages in pdf  
NOLS warns us about over-hydration: Hyponatremia can be fatal  1 page in pdf 
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering   4 pdf pages
Who is Steve House?
How was Tomaz rescued?
How can we support the Mountain View High School Nordic Ski Team?
What are the names of rock climbing's first couple?
Who is Dan Osman?
"Staying Alive" -by Ranger John Dill, Yosemite Search and Rescue
What is the best cell phone for backcountry emergencies?
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
Who is Reinhold Messner?
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
What are some of the comments you have received?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
Notable mountain climbing accidents revisited
Raid qualifier in Bend OR
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
Geocaching introduced to Central Oregon in 2002
Understanding and managing Bouldering???
Who are the Mazamas?
Is mountaineering the root of the many sports of climbing?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
What can I observe about avalanche risk on specific slopes?
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What is an avalanche cord?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?   
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
Training for Alpine Climbing and Mountaineering by Scott Johnston
What do I need to know about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?   Alphabetically?
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?   
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?

  THE ESSENTIAL PAPERWORK
  Suggested Leader Guidelines    Suggested information you should receive from your organized Leaders
  Sign-in Agreements, Waivers and Prospectus     This pdf form will need to be signed by you at the trail head
  Sample Prospectus    Make sure every leader tells you what the group is going to do; print a copy for your "responsible person"
  Participant Information Form    This pdf form can be printed and mailed or handed to the Leader if requested or required
  Emergency and Incident Report Form    Copy and print this form. Carry two copies with your Essentials 
  Participant and Group First Aid Kit    Print this form. Make up your own first aid essentials (kits) 

 ESSENTIAL PERSONAL CLOTHING AND GEAR
Gear grist, an article written for The Mountaineer, the monthly newsletter of The Mountaineers
SPOT Satellite Messenger PLB reviewed and recommended
Getting ready for the outdoors in the winter requires a lot of gear
What does Alpinist Colin Haley say about gear?
Why is the digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
What is a PLB?
What about climbing Mt. Washington in the summer?
How can I prevent, recognize and treat Hypothermia?
Op-Ed: Prepare for the unexpected before setting out in the winter
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
NOLS short video on winter layering systems
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?   
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?    

 YOUR ESSENTIAL DAY PACKS
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?      Photos?    
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?    
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?      Photos?

 YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf  
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?   
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering    4 pdf pages

 CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
How can I avoid, recognize and treat Hypothermia?
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
Which water treatment method is best for this trip?
What's wrong with GORP?    Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?   4 pages in pdf  
NOLS warns us about over-hydration: Hyponatremia can be fatal  1 page in pdf 
Mountain climbers are fit or fat
What should I eat before a day of aerobic climbing?

REAL SURVIVAL STRATEGIES
Whoops: GPS locator switches on- sparks search
How does the included AAC Member's Rescue Insurance work?
FCC requirements for providing mobile phone geographic locations
How can I prevent, recognize and treat Hypothermia?
Op-Ed: Prepare for the unexpected before setting out in the winter
What about the SPOT and DeLorme Handheld GPS With Satellite Communicator?
What about climbing Mt. Washington in the summer?
Op-Ed: Bulletin survival recommendations don’t offer full picture
SPOT Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
Robert Speik writes: "Use your digital cell in the backcountry" for The Mountaineer
FREE Clinic on Real Survival Strategies and Staying Found with Map, Compass and GPS together
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
"Staying Alive" -by Ranger John Dill, Yosemite Search and Rescue
What do you carry in your winter day and summit pack?
Why are "Snow Caves" dangerous?
Why are "Space Blankets" dangerous?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What is a PLB?
Missing climbers on Mount Hood, one dies of hypothermia, two believed killed in fall
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Olympic Champion Rulon Gardner lost on snowmobile!
Lost Olympic hockey player looses feet to cold injury
Expert skier lost five days near resort in North Cascades without map, compass, gps or cell phone
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
How can you learn the skills of snow camping?   Prospectus

 BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
Op-Ed, Good maps are vital to the wilderness experience
Whoops: GPS locator switches on sparks search
Lithium batteries recommended for GPS backcountry use
Beta on GPS units from SuperTopo
Staying found in the backcountry with map, compass and GPS
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?    
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?    
What is the best Map for mountaineering and backcountry travel?   
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
Geocaching introduced to Central Oregon in 2002
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?  pdf
What is the UTM Grid?  2 pdf pages    
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?    
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?  twelve pdf pages

 ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
An overnight base camp high on Mount Hood in May, 2010
Tree well (and crevase, etc.)deep snow safety hazards
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
How can you prevent, recognize and treat Hypothermia?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?   6 pdf pages  
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?

 AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
"The Avalanche at Tunnel Creek", a New York Times Special Report
Avalanche Risk in the Spring
Avalanche risk advisory issued January 19, 2012
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
"Avalanche!" A training Resource from the Mountain Rescue Association    a 17 page manual by Charley Shimanski, in pdf
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?   pdf table 
Avalanche avoidance is a practical approach to avalanche safety
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?  pdf file

 SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?    

 TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
Local Deaths Can Inspire Safer Rappels
Rope worn fixed biners cut rope, climbers injured, die
How to Set Up a Self Belay for a Solo Toprope
Black Diamond talks about carabiners and more
Mazama Summer Climb Schedule for 2015 available soon
Mazama Winter Climb Schedule for 2015-16 available soon
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is a Reepschnur rappel?
What is a self belayed rappel?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?     Photos?    
What is the best climbing harness for traditional alpine mountaineering?    Photos?   
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?   Alphabetically?

 TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
How can you prevent, recognize and treat Hypothermia?
Search and Rescue for Outdoor Leaders, a Mountain Rescue Association handbook for traditional outdoor leaders  16 pages in pdf
Who is Reinhold Messner?
Reinhold Messner speaks to the AAC
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
Traditional slacklining in Bend
A definitive history of slacklining
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
Who is Dan Osman?
Mazama's Summer Climb Schedule
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?

 ENVIRONMENTAL
What about Bouldering?
Wild Mushroom Alert!
Tick Talk
What is "Leave No Trace"® ?
What were the old environmental ethics?
What is a speik?
What is Mud Bogging?   pdf

 BASIC MOUNTAINEERING
Five questions about mountain climbing
Five more questions about mountain climbing

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Thanks again!  Good Climbing!
-Robert Speik

    WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated!