TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING ™
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org ™ and also www.AlpineMountaineering.org ™

™

FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION™
Home | Information | Photos | Calendar | News | Seminars | Experiences | Questions | Updates | Books | Conditions | Links | Search

WHAT IS A PERSONAL LOCATOR BEACON?
by Mountain Gear and ACR Electronics

A Personal Locator Beacon, or PLB, is portable transmitter that sends out a personalized emergency distress signal to your nearest rescue services. 

If you are a hiker, camper, backpacker, kayaker, etc. and are simply out of cell phone range, a PLB is a highly effective and internationally recognized way to summon help.

PLBs are emergency life saving devices to be used when all else fails! They should be used only if there is grave and imminent danger or a life-threatening situation. 

How they work 
PLBs transmit signals on internationally recognized distress frequencies. The 406MHz signal is monitored by NOAA ( National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) 
and the AFRCC ( Air Force Rescue Coordination Center) in the United States. 

The Global satellite tracking system is a collection of Russian, Canadian , American, and French satellites know as COSPAS-SARSAT , SARSAT being an English 
acronym for “Search And Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking”. The network is made up of 4 polar orbiting LEO (Low Earth Orbit) Satellites and 3 GOES (Geostationary 
Operational Environmental Satellites). 

Once a signal is received, these satellites can “fix” on the signal using a Doppler Shift location method, or, when a PLB is hooked up to a GPS, the GPS coordinates can be Instantly transmitted without waiting for an orbiting satellite. The signal is then relayed to a LUT ( Local User Terminal). This signal is then passed on to the Air Force to begin the Search and Rescue procedures. 

Personalized Signal 
Each PLB is equipped with a UIN (Unique Identifying Number) This number is a 15 digit alpha-numeric code. This code is what is transmitted in the electronic burst to the 
satellites. 

The UIN is linked to a computer database. The electronic burst provides Search and Rescue with your location, while the UIN links to the database and provides your name, address, phone number and any pertinent information such as medical problems, of which Search and Rescue should be aware. 

When you buy a PLB, you must register it with NOAA. In doing so, they will tie all your personal information into the 15 digit UIN. That way, when your PLB is activated any where on the Planet, Search and Rescue will know, who you are, where you are and how to handle any pre-existing medical problems when they reach you.

Two Types of PLB signals 
These two different signals are 406 MHz which, which carries the UIN# and GPS data to the satellites, and 121.5 MHz which is a homing frequency. If you are using a PLB without a GPS, the 406 MHz signal from the satellite will get rescuers to within a 2 mile radius of you. At the same time, SAR will be monitoring with a tracking device to home in on the 121.5 MHz frequency put out by the PLB. The average notification time to Search and Rescue with this type of PLB is 45 minutes in the continental U.S. 

If you are using a PLB with a GPS interface, the 406 Mhz signal will guide rescuers to an area less than 100 meters from your position. At the same time, SAR will be 
monitoring with a tracking device to home in on the 121.5 MHz frequency put out by the PLB. The average notification time to Search and Rescue with this type of PLB is 5 minutes! 

In either situation, you can be found much quicker than any existing method. 

It is always a good idea to have a visual and audible distress signal such as a signal mirror ( daytime) a signal whistle, or a strobe light (nighttime) to make sure that you are seen or heard easily, once Search and Rescue gets close.

Why Hasn’t Anyone Every Heard of this Technology Before?
The technology has been in use for over 20 years in the marine environment in (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons) and have saved over 15,000 lives. EPIRBs 
are basically PLBs that are specific for the Marine Environment. 

However, the EPIRB/PLB technology was not legal for use in land based applications until July 1, 2003. Governed by the FCC (Federal Communications Commission) it was not available because there was not a unified overseeing body for land-based rescues. In a marine environment, there is only one rescuing agency, the US Coast Guard, so coordinating rescues and responses has been a relatively easy task. 

Now, the FCC, NOAA and the US Air Force have combined to make the AFRCC (Air Force Rescue Coordination Center), the point of contact for land-based rescues. The 
AFRCC, in turn has established relationships and points of contact in each state. So, whenever a land based PLB is set off, the AFRCC will know exactly who to contact for a rescue response.

How Long Will a PLB Transmit? 
A PLB is equipped with a Lithium battery that has an 11-year life span. It lays dormant until you flip the switch to activate the PLB.

By COSPAS-SARSAT regulations: 
A Class 1 heavy duty battery must be able to transmit at -40° F (-40° C) for 24 hours 
A Class 2 battery must be able to transmit at -20° F (-20° C) for 24 hours
Since the functionality of a battery is negatively affected by cold, this operational tolerance, is a worst case scenario. If the average temperature is 70° F, the battery will be able to operate for approximately twice as long.

Is There a Monthly Subscription Fee for this Product? 
There is no fee. The satellites are already in orbit and so is Search and Rescue.

Buy a PLB from Mountain Gear!

  Click here for the complete owner's manual on a PLB: ACR Electronics Product Support Manual

Your personal risk
Webmeister's Note: 
Your map, compass and GPS and the ability to use them plus your cell phone are the practical substitute for the PLB. Every airplane has a Locator Beacon on board. Almost every off shore boater carries an EPIRB on the vessel, so the concept is not revolutionary. The price, weight and inability to test the functionality of the PLB will likely deter the typical recreational user. The SPOT Satellite Messenger may replace the PLB.

RISK?
This communication technology will save the lives of adventurous souls beyond the cell phone net, but will it detract from the adventure?
Risk is part of traditional alpine mountaineering.   But is the adventure worth the Risk? 
--Webmeister Speik

OpEd: Electronic locator beacons, a mountaineer's viewpoint

Electronic locator beacons, a mountaineer's viewpoint
The Bulletin
Guest Editorial by Robert Speik
March 31, 2007

Note: This OpEd piece was submitted to The Bulletin and it was published in full on March 31, 2007. --Webmeister Speik

http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/News_Lost_HoodGroup.htm

Oregon House Bill 2509 opposed by Mountain Rescue Units

MEDIA RELEASE
March 23, 2007

All of the mountain rescue organizations in the State of Oregon oppose HB2509
These organizations include:
Portland Mountain Rescue
Eugene Mountain Rescue
Corvallis Mountain Rescue
Deschutes County SAR
Hood River Crag Rats

Additionally, the Mountain Rescue Association, which represents over 90 mountain rescue teams through out North America, opposes HB 2509.

The Mt Hood Search and Rescue Council, which represents all the agencies and resource groups on Mt Hood, opposes HB 2509.

Oregon Mountain Rescue Council, the organization recognized by the Oregon State Sheriffs Association as the accreditation body for mountain rescue teams in Oregon, opposes HB2509.

The Mazamas, a non-profit mountaineering education organization representing over 3000 climbers, opposes HB2509.

We believe a law requiring climbers to carry electronic devices will have unintended consequences that will increase the risk to both climbers and rescuers. Additionally, when the state mandates specific equipment it gives the climber a false sense of security. The climber will be more likely to take greater risks because they believe that since the state has required a “beacon” they are entitled to a rescue.

For example, in February, the eight climbers lost on Mt. Hood had beacons, GPS and a compass. When rescuers got to them they walked out on their own. The media portrayed this as great example of the value of the MLU. Our analysis leads us to conclude that they were relying on the rescuers to save them when the incident could have been completely avoided had the climbers known how to properly use their compass and GPS. Self reliance in the mountains is essential for survival, HB2509 will not cause climbers to be more self-reliant. In fact we believe that this law will lead to more reliance on the rescuers.

House Bill 2509 was conceived by a representative as an emotional response to the families of the lost climbers on Mt. Hood. While these people have good intentions, they do not understand issues involving climbers and rescuers on Mt. Hood.

The mountain rescue community is in the best position to understand these issues and help craft effective solutions. We are already actively working on solutions in conjunction with the Governor’s Search and Rescue Task Force and we welcome all opportunities to keep Oregon a wonderful and safe place to enjoy our mountains.

A vote in favor of this bill will be against the advice of the entire mountain rescue community in this state and in the nation.

We ask you to vote NO on House bill 2509
--Rocky Henderson of PMR

PMR Statement on MLU's and PLB's
Thursday, March 15, 2007

Portland Mountain Rescue’s (PMR) mission is to save lives through rescue and mountain safety education. For the past 30 years, PMR has been readily available to search for lost backcountry travelers, assist injured climbers, and provide other ‘safety-net’ services for outdoor enthusiasts who have made a miscalculation about mountain conditions or had an accident. Recent rescue missions have attracted national headlines and inspired some members of the Oregon State Legislature to sponsor House Bill 2509 that would require climbers, on Mount Hood, to carry a two-way device (cell-phone or walkie-talkie) and a Mountain Locator Unit (MLU) / Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) if climbing over 10,000 feet.

House Bill 2509 has generated much discussion in the mountaineering and mountain rescue communities alike. Many of these organizations believe that the focus of the legislation is somewhat misguided. Safe mountaineering requires skill, planning, humility and common sense; and many feel that requiring the use of MLUs/PLBs will diminish the value for learning the skills required to travel safely in the backcountry or above timberline.

PMR agrees that MLUs/PLBs can make it easier to locate lost individuals in some situations and we would prefer that more parties carry them. However, we believe the emphasis should be on the front-end of a climber’s experience in the outdoors: education. As part of that education process an aspiring climber should become familiar with the use of a map and compass, global positioning systems (GPS), MLU/PLB, a cell-phone or other devices that could assist in finding one’s location.

PMR foresees three potential and unfortunate outcomes if House Bill 2509 were to pass:
1. Devalues safety education – By providing climbers with a false sense of security we have devalued the motivation to develop the proper safe traveling skills and planning for unexpected situations, thus leading to more rescues.
2. More danger for rescuers - It will place volunteer rescuers in more danger by fostering an unrealistic expectation that carrying government-mandated equipment entitles climbers to rescue regardless of unsafe conditions.
3. Delayed rescue calls – Search and rescue experts indicate that if penalties exist for stranded or injured climbers, who do not carry an MLU/PLB, they often delay calling. This results in further danger for the stranded or injured party and the rescuers alike.

PMR believes the emphasis should be on education that MLUs/PLBs are available for climbers to use, along with other navigational devices, instead of misguiding the public by mandating those devices as the “silver bullet” to address an undefined problem.

MOUNTAIN RESCUE ASSOCIATION URGES OREGON LEGISLATURE TO POSTPONE HOUSE BILL 2509

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Contact:
Fran Sharp; President (Tacoma, Washington)
Charley Shimanski; Vice President (Evergreen, Colorado)

Rescue Leaders Say Mandating Safety Equipment May Actually INCREASE Number of Search and Rescue Operations
(March 21, 2007) — The Mountain Rescue Association urges the Oregon State Legislature to postpone indefinitely House Bill (HB) 2509, which requires mountaineers to carry specific electronic equipment.

About the Mountain Rescue Association
The Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) is "a volunteer organization dedicated to saving lives through rescue and mountain safety education." The MRA, established in 1958 at Timberline Lodge at Mount Hood, Oregon, is the oldest Search and Rescue association in the United States.
With over 90 government authorized units in the US, Canada and other countries, the MRA has grown to become the critical mountain search and rescue resource in the United States. The large majority of our membership is made up of unpaid professional volunteers who have been fully accredited in Mountain Search and Rescue operations.

http://www.mra.org/documents/MRApositiononMt.Hood.pdf

KATU NEWS.COM
March 28, 2007

SALEM, Ore (AP) - The Oregon House has approved a bill requiring climbers to carry beam-emitting electronic locator devices when they head for the summit of Oregon's tallest peak.

Legislators are hoping to cut down on climbing disasters on Mount Hood.

The measure now goes to the Senate. It was introduced mainly in response to last December's climbing disaster. Three out-of-state men perished after they got caught in a blizzard near the summit of Mount Hood.

Mountaineering groups oppose the bill. They say requiring ALL climbers to carry the locators would infringe on their freedom to pursue the sport without government interference.

The bill was endorsed today by a 33-22 vote.

The legislation got an unexpected boost last month. Three climbers trapped on the mountain overnight were rescued after they activated a mountain locator unit that led searchers directly to them.