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What can I learn about climbing Aconcagua?

I have just started reading Seven Summits by Dick Bass and Frank Wells with Rick Ridgeway.  I know someone who is well into his quest for the coveted Seven Summits and Rick Ridgeway is one of my favorite climbing writers.

Aconcagua is one of the Seven Summits. I did a little research on the net and found Rudy Parra's web.  The first thing that struck me was that although Aconcagua is considered a tall walk-up there is more to bagging this peak than meets the eye.  I plan to complete this page when I have read the book, talked to my Seven Summits friend and talked to Expedition Climber Robert Link, a new resident of Bend.

IN MEMORIAM

Nº,  Name,  Nationality,  Route,  Year 
1 JUAN STEPANEK austriaco norte 1926 
2 BAZIL MARDEN ingles norte 1928 
3 HELMUTH REISING alemán norte 1933 
4 NEWELL BENT norteamericano norte 1936 
5 FERNANDO SOLARI chileno norte 1937 
6 RUPERTO FREILE chileno norte 1937 
7 JOSE KASTELIC yugoslavo norte 1940 
8 JUAN JORGE LINK alemán norte 1944 
9 ADRIANA BANCE1 JUAN STEPANEK austriaco norte 1926 
2 BAZIL MARDEN ingles norte 1928 
3 HELMUTH REISING alemán norte 1933 
4 NEWELL BENT norteamericano norte 1936 
5 FERNANDO SOLARI chileno norte 1937 
6 RUPERTO FREILE chileno norte 1937 
7 JOSE KASTELIC yugoslavo norte 1940 
8 JUAN JORGE LINK alemán norte 1944 
9 ADRIANA BANCE francesa norte 1944 
10 WALTER SCHILLER alemán norte 1944 
11 ALBERT KNEIDL alemán norte 1944 
12 MARIA F CANALS FRAU española norte 1947 
13 JUAN MAAS argentino norte 1947 
14 GUSTAVO MOLLER boliviano norte 1951 
15 RICHARD BURDSALL norteamericano norte 1953 
16 RAFAEL SAAVEDRA ARAYA chileno norte 1957 
17 ?? RICHTER chileno norte 1958 
18 MARIO GIRAUDO (1952?) argentino norte 1960 
19 PEDRO PEREZ CHERP argentino norte 1962 
20 OSCAR ARIZPE MANRIQUE mejicano norte 1962 
21 FERDINAND KRITZ austriaco sur 1966 
22 FERNANDO DE LA MORA mejicano norte 1965 
23 DIETER RAAB alemán norte 1965 
24 JUAN FLORENCIO TOSCANO argentino sur 1969 
25 CLIVE BEFORE SMITH ingles norte 1971 
26 JANET MAE JOHNSON norteamericana polacos 1973 
27 JOHN COOPER norteamericano polacos 1973 
28 MASAO UJI japonés norte 1973 
29 HILDE KOERNFELD austriaca norte 1974 
30 PETER ROSCH alemán norte 1974 
31 PETER GERHARDTER austriaco norte 1979 
32 CHARLES BLUDWORTH norteamericano sur 1980 
33 GUY ANDREWS norteamericano sur 1980 
34 NORBERT BRUCKMAYER alemán norte 1980 
35 HUGH GRANDFIELD ingles sur 1980 
36 SERGIO TOMAS ELIAS argentino polacos 1980 
37 KIM YONG HWANG coreano norte 1981 
38 FRANZ TEUFEL austriaco norte 1981 
39 JORGE NELSON JUAREZ argentino polacos 1981 
40 EDUARDO LOPEZ NOVILLO argentino polacos 1981 
41 MARCELO G. MARQUEZ argentino norte 1984 
42 RUDOLF WALSER suizo norte 1984 
43 JOHN JACOBSON norteamericano norte 1985 
44 MICHAEL PRATT norteamericano norte 1985 
45 SHOHE WADA japonés sur 1985 
46 YUKINOBU KOYAMA japonés sur 1985 
47 KOICHI TAKEUCHI japonés sur 1985 
48 YAMADA TOSHIAKI japonés sur 1986 
49 MICHAC STACHOWIAK polaco sur 1986 
50 ALFREDO MAZZINI argentino norte 1987 
51 RAMON VENTURA ROCA español polacos 1987 
52 FELIX DE PABLOS español sur 1987 
53 DOMINIQUE DARRIGUE francés sur 1987 
54 JIRI MAREK checoslovaco norte 1987 
55 JULIUS LUCHTENETZ alemán norte 1988 
56 HERBERT HEUSER alemán norte 1990 
57 ANIBAL ARAUJO ESTRADA peruano norte 1990 
58 AKIRA OIKAWA japonés norte 1990 
59 ADOLFO BENEGAS argentino sur 1990 
60 ERIK BENDER norteamericano sur 1990 
61 JOSE E. TANCREDI argentino polacos 1990 
62 CLAUDIO CAVALINI argentino polacos 1990 
63 DIDIEK S.WAHYUTRIACHDI indonesio norte 1992 
64 NORMAN EDWIN indonesio norte 1992 
65 FRANCISCO MORENO PADILLA español norte 1992 
66 TSAKIRIS STAVROS griego norte 1993 
67 CLAUDE DUBOIS francés norte 1993 
68 DAVID BATTAGLIA norteamericano norte 1993 
69 ANNETTE MULLER alemana norte 1994 
70 HUGES BEAUZILE francés norte 1995 
71 GLORIA MOUZO argentina norte 1995 
72 JOHN E. POURCELL norteamericano norte 1995 
73 SHIGERU KIMURA japonés norte 1996 
74 YVES NICO ROCKLINGER suizo norte 1996 
75 GONZALO MATOS DE ACEVEDO argentino polacos 1996 
76 RAFAL KIRCZYMSKI polaco sur 1996 
77 ERIC MINGARD suizo norte 1997 
78 MAURICIO TRASOBARES argentino norte 1997 
79 KAN YI HO coreano norte 1998 
80 VECIO YUDI FUJIHAMA brasileño polacos 1998 
81 STEFAN KNOBLICH alemán polacos 1998 
82 VIT MIROSLAV checoslovaco polacos 1998 
83 LEONARDOS OTTON brasileño sur 1998 
84 MOZART KASTENREITER brasileño sur 1998 
85 ALEXANDRE DA SILVA brasileño sur 1998 
86 STANISLAW SMAGA polaco norte 1998 
87 NN (s/DRNR) polacos 1998 
88 JOSE LUIS GONZALEZ argentino norte 1998 
89 SANG SUK PARK coreano norte 1999 
90 ITO YASURO japonés norte 1999 
91 MILAN PALOV checoslovaco norte 1999 
92 ZLATIBOR PRGIN croata norte 1999 
93 JUSTINA H. MARTINEZ mejicana norte 2000 
94 WALTER SERGIO TOCONA argentino polacos 2000 
95 GERMAN BRENA argentino polacos 2000 
96 GUSTAVO MARTIN argentino polacos 2000 
97 DANIEL MARIO MORALES argentino polacos 2000 
98 YSHIGE TAMIHARU japonés norte 2000 
99 FAVIO LISI argentino norte 2000 
100 VERONICA NURIEEN GILNOUR irlandesa norte 2000 
101 ANTON KAPPACHER austriaco Norte 2001 
102 HERBERT SPRINGER alemán norte 2002 
103 PAUL WHITEHOUSE ingles polacos 2002 
104 GUSTAVO LO RE argentino sur 2002 
105 YONG GIE PARX coreano p.leñas 2003 
106 SERGIO CIFUENTES español c.piedra 2003 

Rudy Parra - Aconcagua Trek
Guiraldes 246 - (5519) - Dorrego Mendoza - Argentina
Phone-Fax +54 261 431 7003 
E-mails: aconcagua@rudyparra.com and info@lospuquios.com.ar 


 
USEFUL INFORMATION
ACONCAGUA

Mount Aconcagua (22,841ft) is located entirely in the province of Mendoza, in western Argentina. Aconcagua is one of the highest peaks in the world and the very highest outside Asia.

The first climber to successfully reach the summit was Mathías Zurbriggen of Switzerland. He reached the highest point on Aconcagua on 14 January 1897, following the northwest trail (Normal Route), which has since become the most popular path to Aconcagua’s zenith.

Over the years, the number of expeditions arriving at Aconcagua Provincial Park, eager to face the challenge of height, strong winds and extreme temperatures, have increased steadily, making it one of the most popular destinations among mountain climbers the world over. Aconcagua is part of the "seven summits" circuit.idity is very low and the atmosphere of the Earth is thinner in this region of the globe. All of this
makes Aconcagua a terrain appropriate to test and prepare for later expeditions to mountains higher than 8,000 meters.

The East Ridge, (the Polish Glacier), the South West Ridge, as well as the Western Face, all present an opportunity for visitors to demonstrate their ability. The North West Slope of the mountain, where the normal route lies permits the rapid ascension of heights without technical difficulties.

Confront Aconcagua only under the direction of guides. Climbers attempting to climb Aconcagua must properly equipped and in excellent physical condition.

With regard to the Southern Face, it is a desolate and severe area, with poor quality rocks, constant dangers of avalanches of seracs and snow, falling rocks, great unevenness, significant altitude, the threat of brusque climactic changes, plus true and complete isolation. All these are the factors that give it its savage condition

From the technical point of view, Aconcagua presents all types of With regard to the Southern Face, it is a desolate and severe area, with poor quality rocks, constant dangers of avalanches of seracs and snow, falling rocks, great unevenness, significant altitude, the threat of brusque climactic changes, plus true and complete isolation. All these are the factors that give it its savage condition

From the technical point of view, Aconcagua presents all types of difficulties on rock, ice and snow. And he who confronts the ascent should have a good climbing technique, excellent physical fitness, considerable experience, and most importantly, a lot of enthusiasm and perseverance.

Courtesy of Aconcagua Adventures

--On Belay! Bob Speik
Copyright© 2000-2004 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

 

 

 

 

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