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Climbing is a Quantum Experience
(While climbing with the American Alpine Club)
By Bob McGown, FRAS
I was in a sports bar in Golden, Colorado sampling micro brews and watching a 
World Series game with the St Louis Cardinals and the Cincinnati Red Socks with 
the board of American Alpine Club. We just had a hard day of climbing the Rincon 
Wall in Eldorado Canyon. Our rope guns, climbing leaders, Phil Powers and 
Charlotte Fox had abandoned us and I brought up the subject of quantum mechanics 
as related to a sports event. I was rambling on about quantum properties and 
baseball and Allison Osius (AlliO) called me a ‘nerd’. But really, what do 
baseball, rock climbing & quantum mechanics have in common? The answer is to 
follow:
Can we tie in quantum logic and classical logic and understand an event whether 
in base ball or rock climbing? Classical logic  describes the world we live in, 
while quantum logic is the statistical logic of the quantum world. 
Probably the biggest difference between the logic of the quantum world and the 
logic of the everyday world is that in the quantum world, the observer affects 
the out come of the event. In one of the many urban legends concerning him, the 
great baseball player and coach, Yogi Berra, and two umpires observed a pitch 
coming across the plate. The first umpire said it was inside the box. The second 
umpire said it was outside the box. Then Yogi Berra scrutinized the pitch and 
said “Wait a minute boys, it ain’t anything until I see it.” In base ball as 
well as quantum mechanics, the act of observation may affect the outcome of the 
event.
Rock climbing is a technical sport where style is judged. The ascent in pure 
form, whether roped or free solo, is a sequence of moves. The grace, balance, 
technical skill, and speed are observed and compared. If a technique is done in 
a continuous free style, it is considered a red point. An observer might judge 
style, technique, and other effects of gravity upon the climber. The observation 
of the peers may affect the outcome. Like in baseball, there is overlap and 
uncertainty in the game. Two umpires observe the same event and may have 
different opinions.
In climbing, a sequential series event will become a catalyst to bring about the 
frame reference for the time sequence known as the ascent. A continuous free 
ascent, the red point is the act of the call like in baseball. The umpire calls 
“two balls and a strike” The red point would be considered a hit or a walk 
whether it was done on sight. (Armchair umpire) The batter achieves his goal to 
get on base and later like a quantum leap, steal a base and achieve is goal of 
the point game, thus completing the ascent.
The laws of quantum mechanics are not deterministic laws. They are probabilistic 
in nature. They don’t give definite answers, just probabilities. The 
characteristic of quantum mechanics has troubled many physicists. One suggestion 
is that quantum mechanics is probabilistic because we don’t have the final 
explanation of the quantum world. We may find that there was a deterministic 
theory hiding there all along. This is known as the hidden variable theory. 
There are certainly hidden variables in rock climbing. Ascending a climb, there 
might be moss on the rock or an expanding flake. Yet the hidden variable may 
affect the red point and the climber is considered out, 
sometimes affecting the nature of a first ascent.
One interpretation of the probabilistic nature of quantum mechanics is the many 
worlds interpretation. In the many ‘worlds interpretation’  even though one 
out come is chosen, all possible outcomes are actually realized with the ones 
not chosen in our universe, becoming reality in parallel universes. In rock 
climbing, the rock climber makes it to the summit and descends safely. Or the 
rock climber may be not able to make it to the summit or descend. The climber 
may not reach the summit and is forced to descend. In each situation a different 
time line is taken. Rock climbers carefully use their skill to create a specific 
reality that faces them on each climb. Over time in alternative universes, the 
rock climber will experience all possible outcomes of each climb.
Another key aspect of quantum mechanics is the uncertainly principle. You can 
not know the values of certain pairs of variables to one hundred percent 
certainty. In the art of climbing and baseball, the event is a series of 
compounding variables where the statistical probably may or may not over ride 
the desired out come of the individual. An unknown error factor of perhaps 2% is 
one of the uncertainties that may affect the outcome of the event. The more 
information you have, the less the uncertainty of errors. However as in quantum 
mechanics you may never have complete certainty.
Another strange phenomenon of quantum mechanics is non- locally. In QM particles 
may affect each other from a distance without any physical connection. In 
climbing, the individual climbers may ascend and leap frog like a machine. As if 
driven by one collective mind like ants or termites, they work in unison toward 
a final goal.
It is difficult to describe events in the context of classical physics and QM, 
so scientists sometimes describe events in sequences of complexity and emerging 
behavior. In some ways rock climbing or baseball is a game of emerging behavior. 
If some one were to watch the event unfold, over time they could deduce the 
rules of the game.
In quantum mechanics you don’t know any thing for sure. There are limits on what 
you do know and when you can know it. For example: if you know where you are 
going, you have no idea where you are. Or if you know where you are, you have no 
idea where you are going. In the world of sub atomic particles, there are only 
likelihoods and approximations. Are the uncertainties of the macroscopic world 
the faint echoes of the fundamental principles of uncertainty? Reflecting on the 
vertical ballet of the stone master’s reality, it is the world of classical and 
quantum mechanics that are part of the climber’s mind journey in the parallel 
universes that climbers exist.
############
Note: Bob is a Renaissance Man: He is a rock climber and tradtional mountaineer, 
father, electrician, astronomer, 
author, cement finisher and more. He is a Fellow of the Royal Astronomical 
Society. Bob McGown, American Alpine Club Pacific North-West Chair, sent me this 
latest story. His most recent story, "The Space Geometry Climb" was an 
adventure up the slopes of Mt. Hood with Arlene Blum and others. He led this 
climb the early alpine morning after his two-day effort constructing a pad for a donated telescope 
on the top of Pine Mountain. I was tired out from the work and all the 
photographs, but Bob drove over to 
Mount Hood that night for this climb the next morning with Arlene Blum. Photos of the Pine Mountain 
Astronomical construction can be found here. More 
about Arlene Blum can be found here!
 --Webmeister Speik
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Read more . . .
Bob McGown
The Space Geometry Climb
Arlene Blum
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
 
About Alpine Mountaineering:
 
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
  
Climbing Together
 
Following the Leader
 
The Mountaineers' Rope
 
Basic Responsibilities 
    
    
    
    Cuatro Responsabiliades Basicas de Quienes Salen al Campo
    
  
The Ten Essentials 
    
      
    Los Diez Sistemas Esenciales
  Avalanches
    Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Solo climber dies on Mount McLaughlin
Snowshoer dies in backcountry avalanche in Washington State
Young Bend man dies in remote backcountry avalanche
Recent deaths cause concern over avalanche beacons
Skilled member of The Mountaineers killed in avalanche
Basic Responsibilities of the cross country skier
Avalanche avoidance a practical approach to avalanche safety
Tumalo Mountain a wintertime treat
  Avalanche Avoidance
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
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Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
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How is avalanche risk described and rated by the 
    professionals?   pdf table 
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk 
    with good gear and seminars?  pdf file
  Most Recent Accidents
AAC Report - Accident on Mount Washington ends with helicopter rescue
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Mount Huntington's West Face by Coley Gentzel 
   ©2005 by AAI. All Rights Reserved
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Warning!! **Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer 
    Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
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    Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
 Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Mount Washington -     Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed 
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    Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
    Mount Washington - "Oregon tragedy claims two lives"
    Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
  North Sister
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's 
    Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - accident report to the American Alpine Club
North Sister fatal accident news reports
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
 North Sister, North Ridge by Sam Carpenter
 North Sister, the Martina Testa Story, by Bob Speik
 North Sister, SE Ridge solo by Sam Carpenter
  Other Summits
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
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Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Slip on hard snow on Snow Creek route on San Jacinto
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
California fourteener provides an experience
The Mountaineers Club effects a rescue in the North Cascades
  Mount Washington
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an epic by Eric Seyler