Traditional alpine mountaineering - free information and instruction

TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING ™
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org ™ and also www.AlpineMountaineering.org ™

Barack Obama in Oregon's Bend, at Summit High School!

Map, Compass and GPS used together?

Lessons learned on our sinister North Sister from writer Fitz Cahall
What do you carry in your summer day pack?

Hello - Pomona College alumni and students! Forecast weather
Search this site!

more about this trip

Photos of mountaineering adventures: 05.06.08
       Dedication of free Wanoga Snowplay hill and the new Nordeen Shelter by USFS
       Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund
       USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
       Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
       ONDA's Annual Meeting and fence pull (soon)
       American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR
       Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
       The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!
       Climbing to the summit of Mt. Jefferson
       Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp
       Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
       Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
       The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
       Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
       HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
       Smith Rock Spring Thing 2006!
       BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
       Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
       Winter summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain
       Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands
       AAC-ORS and TraditionalMountaineering build a rescue cache at Smith
       An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!
       A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
       X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
       Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
       Spring snow climbing and ice axe arrest Seminar
       Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure
       Mt. Adams summer snow summit
       Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
       The essential contents of back and summit packs
       Geocaching summits: Black Butte
Maps: 04.23.08
       Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend
       New color maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!
       2007 USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
       Map of proposed Skyline Forest between Bend and Sisters
       Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
       Raid Adventure race course map in the mountains west of Bend
Information:   reviewed 05.01.08
        About alpine mountaineering:
        Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more
        Leader's guidelines:
        Carry our SAR request/WFA form
        Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)
       About our World Wide Website:
        Read about our website Awards, and more
        Our subscriber's discounts at favorite stores
Warning - *Disclaimer*:    reviewed 05.01.08
Calendar: 05.06.08
        Together with the nice weather!    no popups, no advertising, ever!
News: 05.02.08
        Pomona College Magazine: Expert Advice from Robert Speik, Class of '50
        Lessons learned from the latest lost Mt. Hood climbers
        Sir Edmund Hillary dies at the age of 88
        Lessons learned from the latest lost Christmas tree hunters
        Use your cell phone for backcountry adventures and mountaineering
        Free solo climber Michael Reardon falls from Irish sea-cliff and is drowned
        Oregon HB 2509 mandates electronic signaling devices on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
        Climbing party saved by big warm dog and cell phone on the easy snow slopes of Mt. Hood!
        Stranded Utah motorists stuck in snow, die from hypothermia in quest to find help
        Missing on Mt. Hood, three experienced climbers, all perish
        Missing California family found, father dies from hypothermia in quest to find help
        Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
        Missing man stays with stranded car, found by snowmobilers
        Missing Longacre Expeditions teen group rescued from the snowdrifts above Todd Lake!
        Missing South Sister novice climber found after 6.5 mile snow trek to Elk Lake
        American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for "mentoring" goes to Robert Speik!
        Bend's Mountain Link team puts four on Everest's summit!
        Royal Robbins speaks on "40 Years of Adventure", in Bend, Oregon
        Steve House of Bend Oregon and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face in alpine style
        Tommy Caldwell free climbs both The Nose and Freerider in a day
        BLM closes Bend's Badlands WSA to motorized vehicle use
        OSU graduate slips from Three Finger Jack
        Mount Washington climber seriously injured in rockfall
        North Sister climbers swept away by Spring avalanche
        R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
        Mount Washington claims two climbers
        X-Adventure Raid World Adventure Race qualifier in Bend OR
        Mt. Rainier climber dies after rescue
        Mt. Jefferson climbers rescued by helicopter
        Steens Big Indian Gorge backpack adventure
Field Seminars:   05.05.08
        Free - Real backcountry survival strategies for Oregon State Snowmobile Association
        Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
        Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
        Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
        Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
        Free - Broken Top Circle on trails, snow, rock and glacier ice
        Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands
Recommended Classes:   05.01.08
       Map, compass and GPS together:     Wilderness First Aid:
       Real Backcountry Survival Strategies:
       Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:
Seminar Handouts:   reviewed 05.01.08
        Using map, compass and GPS together, ten pdf pages
        Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages
        Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages
        Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages
        Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages
Experiences:    05.02.08
        Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
        Analysis of the 2007 Mount Hood tragedy
        Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
        Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
        Slip on Three Finger Jack takes OSU graduate
        Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
        Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
        Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
        Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
        Report on the most recent Mount Washington tragedy
        Accident Reports to the American Alpine Club
        Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others
Questions:    05.02.08
        SPOT Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
        What clothing system do you wear for winter adventures?
        Which topographic maps work with your compass and GPS?
        How do you use your $6 map, $30 compass and $100 GPS together?
        What is a "GSM digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
        Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?
        Why is a "space blanket" dangerous?
        What are the best snowshoes? Best crampons?
        What about snow caves?
        What about climbing Mt. Hood?
        What's in the best backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
        What is the best compass and GPS?
        What do you carry in your winter day pack? Plus photos!
        What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?
        What gear do you rack on your alpine harness?
Email updates:    01.23.08
        Garmin E-Trex H (our GPS pick) available now for $99 thru info@traditionalmountaineering.org
        Backcountry First Aid, by Buck Tilton of NOLS $6 thru info@traditionalmountaineering.org
        National Geographic's TOPO for Oregon $99 thru info@traditionalmountaineering.org with local tech support!
        Suunto M3D Leader Compass $30 thru info@traditionalmountaineering.org
        Acme Thunderer Whistle $6 thru info@traditionalmountaineering.org It's a blast!
Books:    04.16.08
        Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well!   pdf
        Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, 7th Edition, required reading
        Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2007, recommended reading
        The 1972 Chouinard Catalog of his clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more
        Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers, recommended
Seasonal trail conditions Report:      last received 04.09.08
        USFS latest trail conditions:      last received 05.06.08
Selected Links:    links updated 05.01.08
        More than 279 selected and indexed links you will like!
Contact us!    reviewed 05.01.08

Translate our website!    reviewed 05.01.08

OUR MISSION
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking, scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."

HomePage and SiteMap

Updated by hand 05.09.08
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Any use of this material is prohibited without express written permission from the Copyright Holders. However, written permission likely will be granted for specific pages for limited nonprofit educational use by schools and clubs. Original material Copyright© 2002-2008 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

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TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in national media and in "Outside", "Rock and Ice" and "Backpacker" magazines and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Cascades East Magazine and more!
Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000!
Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!

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