TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org ™ and also www.AlpineMountaineering.org

Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon ©
FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
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Four Personal Legal Responsibilities of each Backcountry Traveler
The Personal Seasonal Trip Related Ten Essential Systems

Three unprepared snowshoe campers lost in the snow for two cold nights on Mt. Hood

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Climbing together on Broken Top
 


 

 

  News:    11.01.14  --or Google these selected phrases
        Lost Badlands Wilderness Hiker calls 911
        Rescuers assist overdue Broken Top climber
        Injured Climber Rescued from Smith Rock “Wherever I May Roam” climbing area
        Mount Hood - Missing hiker Mary Owen, found alive after six nights alone
        Bend father and son snowmobilers lost overnight - 2013   star
        Why are "snow caves" dangerous?
        Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia - 2006
        Op-Ed: Bulletin survival recommendations don’t offer full picture - 2013   star
        Op-Ed: Bulletin survival recommendations don’t offer full picture - 2007
        Op-Ed: Good maps are vital to the wilderness experience   star
        Three snowshoe hikers found by SAR after two cold nights on Mt. Hood   star
        Hikers found by SAR on Tam McArthur Rim
        Whoops: GPS locator switches on, sparks search - what happened?
        Mount Hood - Experienced climber dies in 1,000' tumbling fall from the Hogsback
        Mount Hood - Experienced climber dies in solo fall from the Hogsback
        Four die unprepared in forecast storm on Mt. Rainier
        Badlands Wilderness Management Plan - Our Comments
        Pomona College Magazine: Expert Advice from Robert Speik, Class of '50
        Searchers Find Lost Mountain Biker West of Bend
        Solo cross country skier lost north of Mt. Bachelor
        Analysis of the December 2009 deaths from hypothermia of three climbers on Mount Hood  star
        Teen skier without cell phone, lost for nine hours in deep powder at Mt. Bachelor
        Lost Prineville hunter avoids hypothermia in Ochoco mountains! What did he do right?
        Three Stranded "Hikers" Rescued from Atop South Sister by SAR
        Several lost hiker incidents near Sisters, Oregon, resolved by SAR
        Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by "chance encounter"
        OpEd: Yuppie 911 devices can take the "search" out of Search and Rescue 
        Mt. Rainier climbers lack cell phones, one dies from hypothermia, overnight in forecast storm
        Robert Speik writes: "There is no denying the sense of cell" for The Mountaineers
        Robert Speik writes about the Ten Essential Systems for The Mountaineers Magazine
        SPOT-2 Satellite GPS Messenger at stores nationwide
        Use your common digital cell phone for backcountry adventures and mountaineering
        Three unprepared hikers rescued from South Sister in snow storm on Labor Day
        Mt. Hood climbers killed by summit icefall on blue bird day
        Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail, child dies
        Remembering Jim Witty, 1958-2008
        Oregon HB 2509 mandates short-range electronic signaling devices on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
        Climbing party "saved" by big warm dog and cell phone on the ski slopes of Mt. Hood!
        Mount Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers in December 2006?  star
        Missing California family found, father dies from hypothermia in quest to find help
        Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
        American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for "mentoring" goes to Robert Speik!
        Royal Robbins speaks on "40 Years of Adventure", in Bend, Oregon
        Steve House of Central Oregon and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face in alpine style
        OSU graduate slips from Three Fingered Jack
        Mount Washington climber seriously injured in rockfall
        North Sister climbers swept away by Spring avalanche
        R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
        Mount Washington claims two climbers
        X-Adventure Raid World Adventure Race qualifier in Bend OR
        Mt. Jefferson climbers rescued by helicopter
        Steens Big Indian Gorge backpack adventure with Jim Witty
  Photos of mountaineering adventures:    11.01.14   --or Google these selected phrases:
       ONDA volunteers plant 700 aspens, restoring meadows at Silvies Valley Ranch
       Jared Leisek's Brokentop with GoPro and PPG
       Drone footage of climbers on Trango Tower
       South Sister solo cross country circumnavigation in early summer  star
       The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!  star
       TraditionalMountaineering Adopts the Crooked River through Smith Rock
       Bachelor Butte Dog Derby sled dog races from Wanoga Snowpark
       Bend businesses sponsor a Badlands "Wilderness Restoration" Day   star
       Badlands wilderness trail closure volunteers "trammel" required values   star
       Wilderness Restoration: The Paradox of Public Participation
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
       The essential contents of back and summit packs 
       Steep snow climbing Class of 2009  star
       Photos of all stages of the Pole Peddle Paddle 
       Photos of a summer climb of South Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness
       Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund
       USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
       Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
       American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR   star
       Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
       Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp  star
       Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
       Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
       The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
       Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
       HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
       Smith Rock Spring Thing!
       BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
       Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
       Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands   star
       An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!  star
       A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
       X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
       Barack Obama's 2008 Town Hall Meeting in Bend, Oregon  star  star
       Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
       Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure 
       Mt. Adams spring snow summit
       Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
Maps:   reviewed 11.01.14
       Op-Ed, Good maps are vital to the wilderness experience
       Map of some known Avalanche Slopes near Bend, Oregon
       Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend star
       New topo maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!  star
       USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
       Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
       Raid Adventure Race course map in the mountains west of Bend

  Information:    reviewed 11.01.14
          About alpine mountaineering:
        Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more

          Leader's guidelines: 
        Carry our SAR request/WFA form   star
        Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)

         About our World Wide Website: 
        Read about our website Awards, and more
  Warning - *Disclaimer*:    reviewed 11.01.14
  Calendar:   11.01.14
        Together with Bend's nice weather!    no popups, no advertising, ever!

  Field Seminars:    
11.01.14
        Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
        Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
        Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
        Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
        Free - Broken Top Circle on trails, traces, snow, rock and glacier ice
        Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands

 
Recommended Classes:    reviewed 11.01.14
         Map, compass and GPS used together:    star
         Be Prepared for Seasonal Adventures:      Wilderness First Aid: 
         Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:    star
  Seminar Handouts:    reviewed 11.01.14
        Four Simple Responsibilities of each backcountry traveler
        The Ten Essential Systems
        Using map, compass and GPS together, twelve pdf pages
        Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages  star
        Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages

        Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages 
        Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages Carboration and hydration in one big drink!
  Experiences:       11.01.14 
  --or Google these selected phrases:
        Rescuers find overdue Broken Top climber
        Accidents in North American Mountaineering, reports to the American Alpine Club
        Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others
        South Sister climber rescued by local helicopter
        North Sister fall claims yet another climber
        Climber injured in fall near Smith Rock, lowered in high angle rescue
        North Sister fall claims Brian Jones
        Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
        Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags in Washington
        Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood 
        Climber dies from hypothermia in overnight storm on Mt. Rainier: Analysis 
        Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
        Analysis of the December 2006 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood 
        Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
        Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
        Slip on Three Fingered Jack takes OSU graduate
        Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
        Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
        Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
        Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
        Report on the sad Mount Washington tragedy
  Questions:     11.01.14    --or Google these selected phrases:
        FCC E911 Requirements for Providing Mobile Phone Geographic Locations
        How can I prevent, recognize and treat hypothermia in the backcountry?
        What is the best new GPS for backcountry and mountaineering?
        SPOT II Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
        What do you carry in your summer day pack? Plus photos of this gear!
        Which topographic maps really work with your compass and GPS?
        How do you use your $7 topo map, $30 adjusted compass and $100 Garmin GPS together?
        What is a good "digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?  star
        Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?  star
        What is a reepschnur rappel?
        How can I self belay my rappels?
        What do you know about Tick Talk?
        What are the best snowshoes?  Best crampons?
        What about digging and designing a safe snow cave?
        What about novices climbing Mt. Hood?
        What's in the best summer backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
        What is the best inexpensive base plate compass, topo map and new GPS?
        What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?

  Email updates:     reviewed 11.01.14
        Contact us! for where to find these BEST deals:
        Black Diamond Raven Ice Axes to 90cm, $60.00!
        Suunto M3D Leader Compass, $25.00!
        SPOT-2 Satellite Messenger, $100.00!
        Garmin eTrex Venture HC $100.00!
  Books:     reviewed 11.01
.14
        Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well!
       "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills", 8th Edition, required reading

       "Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2012", recommended reading
       "Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers", recommended
       "Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight and James Martin, recommended
       "Self Rescue by David J. Fasulo (and Mike Clelland), a must
       "Alpine Climbing" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, recommended
        My personal 1972 Chouinard Catalog of clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more!
  Seasonal trail conditions Report:      last received 10.29.14
          Chris Sabo's USFS latest trail tips:      last received 10.29.14  star
  Selected Links:     links reviewed
11.01.14
        More than 363 selected and indexed external links you will like!   star
  Contact us!     reviewed 11.01.14
  Translate our website!     reviewed 11.01.14

OUR MISSION
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking,
scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."

 


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TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in Outside, Climbing, Rock and Ice and Backpacker magazines, Trailspace News, the Los Angeles Times and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Palm Springs Life Magazine, Cascades East Magazine, The Bulletin, The Oregonian, Patagonia Dirt Bag Diaries,
 Wikipedia, The Source, Bend Weekly, Sisters Nugget News, The High Desert Pulse, The (Seattle) Mountaineer, The Cascades Mountaineer, CascadeClimbers, Huel Hauser, NBC, ABC, KPOV and more!
Chairman of the Mountaineering Training Committee of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club providing Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Training for about 1,000 novices each year, mid 1980s
Instructor in Basic to Advanced Mountaineering Training at Central Oregon Community College, educating adults in eight related subject classes, for six years, mid 1990s
Volunteer Backcountry Ranger, backpacking the Three Sisters Wilderness for four summer seasons, educating users about Leave No Trace and Wilderness ethics, for five summers, late 1990s
Organizer and Instructor of private and public Seminars on cramponing, self arrest, lead climbing anchors, self belayed rappelling, using the right topo map, compass and GPS together and many more
Co-Founder and Charter President of Cascades Mountaineers, a club of up to 300 Members, 1995 to 2001
Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000!  Listed under "Great Leaders" by the Sierra Club in 2011
Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!
 Contributor to "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" 1998 to 2014! Special Mention in ANAM in 2014!

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