TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org ™ and also www.AlpineMountaineering.org

Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon ©
FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
Home | Information | Photos | Calendar | News | Seminars | Experiences | Questions | Updates | Books | Conditions | Links | Search

'Wilderness Survival' (actually, how to "Be Prepared") - FREE CLASS - 09-21-10!
Basic 'map, compass and GPS' navigation for the backcountry - FREE CLASS - soon

Forecast weather
Search this site!

Climbing together on Broken Top
Read more!

 

  News:    09.01.10  --or Google these phrases:
        Three Stranded "Hikers" Rescued from Atop South Sister by SAR
        Several lost hiker incidents near Sisters, Oregon, resolved by SAR
        Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by 'chance encounter'
        OpEd: Yuppie 911 devices can take the search out of Search and Rescue 
        Robert Speik writes: "There is no denying the sense of cell" for The Mountaineers
        Robert Speik writes about the Ten Essential Systems for The Mountaineers Magazine
        Mt. Rainier climbers lack cell phones, climber dies overnight in forecast storm
        SPOT Unveils Next Generation Satellite GPS Messenger at Outdoor Retailer: "SPOT II"
        Use your common digital cell phone for backcountry adventures and mountaineering  star
        Snowshoer, "lost" near Wanoga snowpark, rescued by SAR  star
        Three more winter climbers lost on Mt. Hood in December 2009
        Three rescued from South Sister in snow storm on Labor Day
        Mt. Hood climber killed by summit icefall on blue bird day
        Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail, child dies
        Proposed Tumalo Recreation Zone in the Deschutes National Forest
        The Oregon Badlands Wilderness signed into law
        Remembering Jim Witty, 1958-2008
        Pomona College Magazine: Expert Advice from Robert Speik, Class of '50
        Lessons learned from lost Mt. Hood climbers in 2007
        Free solo climber Michael Reardon falls from Irish sea-cliff and is drowned
        Oregon HB 2509 mandates electronic signaling devices on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
        Climbing party "saved" by big warm dog and cell phone on the ski slopes of Mt. Hood!
        Mount Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers in December 2006?   star
        Missing California family found, father dies from hypothermia in quest to find help
        Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
        Missing man stays with stranded car, found by snowmobilers
        Missing South Sister novice climber found after 6.5 mile snow trek to Elk Lake
        American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for "mentoring" goes to Robert Speik!
        Bend's Mountain Link team puts four on Everest's summit!
        Royal Robbins speaks on "40 Years of Adventure", in Bend, Oregon
        Steve House of Bend Oregon and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face in alpine style
        OSU graduate slips from Three Fingered Jack
        Mount Washington climber seriously injured in rockfall
        North Sister climbers swept away by Spring avalanche
        R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
        Mount Washington claims two climbers
        X-Adventure Raid World Adventure Race qualifier in Bend OR
        Mt. Jefferson climbers rescued by helicopter
        Steens Big Indian Gorge backpack adventure with Jim Witty
  Photos of mountaineering adventures:    08.31.10   --or Google these phrases:
       Becoming an Outdoor Woman: Map, Compass and GPS Together
      
TraditionalMountaineering Adopts the Crooked River through Smith Rock
       Bachelor Butte Dog Derby sled dog races from Wanoga Snowpark
 
      Bend businesses sponsor a Badlands "Wilderness Restoration" Day   star
       Badlands wilderness trail closure volunteers "trammel" required values   star
       Wilderness Restoration: The Paradox of Public Participation
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
       The essential contents of back and summit packs 
       Steep snow climbing Class of 2009  star
       Photos of all stages of the Pole Peddle Paddle 
       Photos of a summer climb of South Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness
       Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund
       USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
       Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
       American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR   star
       Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
       The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!  star
       Climbing to the summit of Mt. Jefferson
       Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp  star
       Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
       Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
       The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
       Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
       HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
       Smith Rock Spring Thing!
       BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
       Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
       Winter summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain
       Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands   star
       An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!  star
       A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
       X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
       Barack Obama's 2008 Town Hall Meeting in Bend, Oregon  star  star
       Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
       Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure 
       Mt. Adams summer snow summit
       Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
Maps:   reviewed 09.01.10
       Map of some known Avalanche Slopes near Bend, Oregon
       Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend star
       New color maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!  star
       USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
       Map of proposed Skyline Forest between Bend and Sisters
       Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
       Raid Adventure race course map in the mountains west of Bend

  Information:    reviewed 09.01.10
          About alpine mountaineering:
        Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more

          Leader's guidelines: 
        Carry our SAR request/WFA form   star
        Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)

         About our World Wide Website: 
        Read about our website Awards, and more
        Our subscriber's discounts at favorite stores

  Warning - *Disclaimer*:    reviewed 09.01.10
  Calendar:   09.01.10
        Together with Bend's nice weather!    no popups, no advertising, ever!

  Field Seminars:    
09.01.10
        Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
        Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
        Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
        Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
        Free - Broken Top Circle on trails, snow, rock and glacier ice
        Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands

 
Recommended Classes:    reviewed 09.01.10
         Map, compass and GPS together:    star
         Real Backcountry Survival Strategies:      Wilderness First Aid: 
         Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:    star
  Seminar Handouts:    reviewed 09.01.10
        Using map, compass and GPS together, twelve pdf pages
        Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages  star
        Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages

        Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages 
        Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages Carboration and hydration in one big drink!
  Experiences:       08.27.10 
  --or Google these phrases:
        Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
        Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags in Washington
        Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood 
        Climber dies from hypothermia in overnight storm on Mt. Rainier: Analysis 
        Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
        Analysis of the December 2006 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood 
        Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
        Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
        Slip on Three Finger Jack takes OSU graduate
        Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
        Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
        Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
        Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
        Report on the most recent Mount Washington tragedy
        Accident Reports to the American Alpine Club
        Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others

  Questions:     08.29.10    --or Google these phrases:
        What is the best new GPS for backcountry and mountaineering?
        SPOT II Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
        What do you carry in your summer day pack? Plus photos of this gear!
        Which topographic maps really work with your compass and GPS?
        How do you use your $7 topo map, $30 adjusted compass and $100 Garmin GPS together?
        What is a good "digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?  star
        Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?  star
        Why is a "space blanket" dangerous?
        What do you know about Tick Talk?
        What are the best snowshoes?  Best crampons?
        What about safe snow caves?
        What about novices climbing Mt. Hood?
        What's in the best summer backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
        What is the best inexpensive base plate compass, topo map and new GPS?
        What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?

  Email updates:     reviewed 09.01.10
        Contact us! for information on these good deals:
        Black Diamond Raven Ice Axes to 90cm, $80.00!
        SPOT-I GPS Communicator, $50.00!

  Books:    reviewed 09.01.10
        Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well!  pdf
       "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills", 7th Edition, required reading

       "Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2009", recommended reading
       "Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers", recommended
       "Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight and James Martin, recommended
       "Self Rescue by David J. Fasulo (and Mike Clelland), a must
       "Alpine Climbing" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, recommended
        My personal 1972 Chouinard Catalog of clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more!
  Seasonal trail conditions Report:     last received 08.27.10
          Chris Sabo's USFS latest trail conditions:      last received 08.27.10  star
  Selected Links:     links updated 08.22.10
        More than 336 selected and indexed external links you will like!
   star
  Contact us!     reviewed 09.01.10
  Translate our website!     reviewed 09.01.10

OUR MISSION
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking,
scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."

 


HomePage and SiteMap

Updated by hand 09.02.10
Dialup download times for these web pages are held to a minimum! Blazing 100 megabit broadband experience too!

Any use of this material is prohibited without express written permission from the Copyright Holders. However, written permission likely will be granted for specific pages
for limited nonprofit educational use by schools and clubs. Original material Copyright© 2002-2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

Total unique viewers world-wide maximum seven days: 310,168;  server requests (hits) during maximum seven days: 2,171,179!
Viewed maximum seven days from 31,174 hosts in >50 countries around the world with 28.23 gigabytes of data transferred!
This web has about 17,170 files, 14,593 images, 166,485 hyperlinks including 11,535 external links!
Listed first in the world by top ranked Google's Search on "alpine mountaineering", "map, compass and gps", "light and fast climbing" and many more!

TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in "Outside", "Climbing", "Rock and Ice" and "Backpacker" magazines and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Palm Springs Life Magazine, Cascades East Magazine, The Bulletin, The Oregonian,
 The Source, Bend Weekly, Sisters Nugget News, The High Desert Pulse, The (Seattle) Mountaineer, The Cascades Mountaineer, NBC, ABC, KPOV and more!
Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000!
Listed under "Great Leaders" by the Sierra Club in 2001!

Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!
Special Mention in "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" 1999 to 2010!

Pacific Power Blue Sky Wind Energy powers this Website!