“SARENE” SNOW ANCHORS - MINIMUM GEAR AND SET-UP
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD

SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP - LEARN AND PRACTICE SET-UP AND ROPE HANDLING
­SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER

ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS - LEARN AND PRACTICE ROPE SETUP AND KNOTS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW
-TYING OFF THE BACKPACK

RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE - MINIMUM GEAR AND SET-UP
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS AND OTHER GEAR USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE

Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-GEAR
-SET UP AND BUILD VARIOUS SYSTEMS

REQUIRED GEAR -
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS**
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 1 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS**
- YOUR CLIMBING BOOTS AND CRAMPONS**
- YOUR OWN ROPE**
** This is intended to be a Basic to Advanced hands-on Class. If you do not own the items marked with a **, you can use our gear. Please do not buy gear before you attend this Class.

TECHNICAL REFERENCES:
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, SEVENTH EDITION 2003
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS  1990
SELF-RESCUE, DAVID J. FASULO  1996
CLIMBING ICE, YVON CHOUINARD 1977
EXTREME ALPINISM, MARK TWIGHT 1999
PETZL-CHARLET MOSER 2006 CATALOG

Group Dynamics -
The class includes lunch and time for planning adventures. We will be working together with the actual gear recommended in the class.

Robert Speik, your instructor,
Is an experienced backcountry leader/instructor and editor of student and leader handbooks. For six years, he taught popular Mountaineering, Alpine Rambling, Backpacking and Wilderness Navigation Classes and field Seminars at Central Oregon Community College. In the mid 1980s, for three years he was Chairman of the Angeles Chapter Mountaineering Training Committee, responsible for Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Training for up to 1,000 students per year. Bob is the author of the popular world wide website www.TraditionalMountaineeing.org.