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ACCIDENT REPORT FOR THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
Smith Rock - inadequate top rope belay

The primary purpose of these experience reports and the Annual Report of Accidents in North American Mountaineering is to aid in the prevention of accidents.

Nathan Sanborn, 27, was climbing the first pitch of Spiderman, a four star classic climb rated 5.7 by Alan Watts (trad gear to 3 inches) when he slipped off about three feet above his last protection and fell an estimated 12 to 15 feet due to rope stretch and an inadvertent dynamic belay. The toe of one foot struck a bulge on the low-angled rock, hyper extending his foot and breaking a bone in his ankle. Additional tissue damage was done as well, and the injury was very painful.

Nathan was lowered off about 50 feet and the party called 911 for assistance. Redmond Fire and Rescue arrived in about one hour and Deschutes County Sheriff’s SAR somewhat later. Nathan was lowered down the scree in a belayed stokes litter, carried to the trail head and transported to hospital.

Analysis of Accident: What knowledge and techniques will help prevent future accidents?
Nathan suggests that lead climbers set protection as high as possible before attempting a difficult move. His equalized number one Camelot and medium hex held his fall but the stretch of the long rope and a dynamic belay turned a seeming seven footer into a 12 to 15 foot fall. The belayer, standing back from the wall, was pulled forward into the wall, contributing to the length of the fall. Nathan, about 200 pounds, states that in the future, he will make sure that his belayer is anchored.

Additional Comments
Low-angled climbs can be more dangerous than vertical rock.

Report filed by Robert Speik for the 56th edition of ANAM, year 2003
Copyright© 2003 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

Read more . . .
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering

  SMITH ROCK EXPERIENCES
Smith Rock - WARNING - top rope belay error
Smith Rock - inadequate top rope belay
Smith Rock - climber injured on the approach
Smith Rock - WARNING - belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - novice sport climber injured
Smith Rock - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - fall on rock - poor position, inadequate protection
Smith Rock - pulled rock off - fall on rock, failure to test holds, exceeding abilities
Smith Rock - belay failure, fatal fall on rock

  SMITH ROCK PHOTOS
Smith Rock from above the Burma Road
Smith Rock rescue cache by AAC/ORS and TraditionalMountaineering
Smith Rock weekend
Smith Rock Monkey Face practice