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Copyright© 2007-2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
From our Calendar of Current Traditional Mountaineering Events:
Thursday through Monday, March 29 to April 2, 2007 in Bend Oregon!
The 2007 American Alpine Club Mountain Fest and Annual
Meeting, The Riverhouse Hotel and Smith Rock State Park
Pre registered full weekend pass holders have access to all the events including
the Saturday evening awards and presentation. The only way to attend the
Saturday evening awards and presentation and/or the Friday dinner is by
purchasing the weekend pass. All other events will be open on a space available
basis. This includes the Direct Beckey film, the House/Anderson presentation,
Climate Change Symposium, Ladies Base Camp Breakfast, clinics and closing
reception.
THURSDAY, MARCH 29
6:00-8:00pm, DINNER, McMenamins, Bend, Welcoming dinner and reception for
officials and guests.
8:00-10:00pm, "DIRECT BECKEY", DIRECTORS CUT FILM PREVIEW, McMenamins, Bend,
Preview clips, photographs and rarely before seen archival footage dating back
to the 1940's from the upcoming documentary, "Direct Beckey." This historic film
tells the unique life story of climbing legend and prolific first ascentionist:
Fred Beckey. Featuring filmmakers Dave O'Leske and Jeff Wenger with special
guest Fred Beckey.
FRIDAY, MARCH 30
8:00am-5:00pm, BOARD OF DIRECTORS MEETING, Riverhouse Hotel
5:00-6:00pm, WELCOMING RECEPTION, Riverhouse Hotel
5:00-8:00pm, SILENT AUCTION OPENS, Riverhouse Hotel
6:00-7:30pm, DINNER, Riverhouse Hotel
8:00-10:00pm, STEVE HOUSE & VINCE ANDERSON PRESENTATION, Midtown Ballroom, Bend,
Spend an evening with cutting-edge alpinist Steve House as he recounts a new
route in Peru with partner Marko Prezelj as well as his sixteen-year quest to
climb Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face. His 2005 ascent of the central pillar of the
world's biggest wall with Vince Anderson has gone down in history as one of the
most important climbs in the Himalaya. Live artwork by Jeremy Collins, auction,
and awards. See the amazing poster
10:00pm-close, POST SHOW PARTY, Domino Room
SATURDAY, MARCH 31
7:30 A.M.-9 A.M., BURRITO BREAKFAST, Smith Rock
7:30 A.M.-9 A.M., CLINIC REGISTRATION, Smith Rock
9:30 A.M.-12 P.M., ROCK CLIMBING CLINICS, SESSION ONE, Smith Rock
1:30 P.M. - 4 P.M., ROCK CLIMBING CLINICS, SESSION TWO, Smith Rock
Featured clinicians include Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Kate Rutherford, Beth
Rodden, Tommy Caldwell, Steve House, Josh Wharton, Katie Brown, Jack Tackle,
Chris Lindner, Arno Ilgner, Vince Anderson, and Lynn Hill. There are two clinic
sessions scheduled for the weekend. Online sign up.
9:00 A.M.-5:00 P.M., TRADE FAIR, Smith Rock
1:00 P.M. - 4:30 P.M., CLIMATE CHANGE SYMPOSIUM, Riverhouse Hotel
DR. HENRY VAUX, JR will introduce the topic, DR. MAYNARD M. MILLER will address
the alterations in Alaska's glaciers. TOMATSU NAKAMURA will discuss the Eastern
Himalaya. MARK BOWEN author of Thin Ice will discuss the outlook looking forward.
4:30-5:30 pm, MEMBERSHIP MEETING, Riverhouse Hotel
5:00-7:00pm, RECEPTION, SILENT AUCTION CLOSES, Riverhouse Hotel
7:00-11:00pm, DINNER AND AWARDS, CALDWELL/RODDEN
PRESENTATION, Riverhouse Hotel
KEYNOTE SPEAKER: TOMMY CALDWELL AND BETH RODDEN. Two of the most accomplished
rock climbers in the world, the "First Couple of Rock" explain and share the
sacrifice and dedication it takes to complete the hardest free rock routes in
the world through stunning video and dramatic still images from Yosemite to
Kyrgyzstan to Smith Rock.
SUNDAY, APRIL 1
8:30 A.M. - 10:30 A.M., LADIES' BASE CAMP BREAKFAST,
Riverhouse Hotel, RSVP MANDATORY. Breakfast available for purchase. Expect the
unexpected. Come share climbing experiences, meet the women of the Board and
celebrate the 40th anniversary of the first ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome
by Liz Robbins, special guests of honor. Also featuring Yosemite pioneer,
climber, writer and raconteur Allen Steck.
10:30 A.M.-12 P.M., METOLIUS FACTORY TOUR, BEND
1:00 P.M. - 4:00 P.M., SERVICE PROJECT, Smith Rock
4:00 P.M. - 8:00 P.M., CLOSING RECEPTION, The Depot, Terrabonne, BBQ, beer and
presentation
MONDAY, APRIL 2
8:30 A.M. - 3:00 P.M., SECTION LEADERS SUMMIT, Riverhouse Hotel
LODGING INFORMATION
A limited block of rooms is being held for Mountain Fest attendees at the
Riverhouse Hotel beginning at $82. Reservations must be made by February 28,
2007 and secured with a credit card. Call (800) 547-3928 and mention the AAC
Annual Meeting to receive the discount. The Riverhouse amenities include four
restaurants, room service, two swimming pool complexes, fitness center, tennis
courts, a championship 18-hole golf course, lounge and night club featuring live
entertainment. A complimentary continental breakfast is provided.
Walk in camping is available at Smith Rock State Park for $4 on a first-come,
first-served basis. No fires, but hot showers. For more information call (800)
551-6949. There is also BLM camping just east of Smith and many hotels in Bend.
Read more . . .
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
Autographed Poster for AAC Annual Meeting in Bend Oregon
ABOUT TRADITIONAL ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING:
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
Cuatro Responsabiliades Basicas de Quienes Salen al Campo
The Ten Essential Systems
Los Diez Sistemas Esenciales
LATEST NEWS POSTINGS
MOST RECENT
EXPERIENCES OF OTHERS
TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
Search this site!
HB 2509 mandates electronic locator beacons on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
Oregon HB 2509 as approved on March 28, 2007
Three hikers and a dog rescued on Mt. Hood
Motorist stuck in snow on backcountry Road 18, phones 911 for rescue
Snow stranded Utah couple leave car and die from hypothermia
What happened to the three climbers on Mt. Hood?
Two climbers become lost descending Mt. Hood
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Longacre Expeditions teen group rescued from the snowdrifts above Todd Lake
Lost climber hikes 6.5 miles from South Sister Trail to Elk Lake
Young climber stuck on a steep snow slope rescued from Mt. Hood
American Alpine Club's Trad Award goes to Robert Speik in 2006
A climb of Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Ten high altitude deaths on Everest confirmed for 2006 climbing season
On Being and Becoming a Mountaineer: an Essay
Climbing Mount Hood in April with Arlene Blum and friends
AAC Report - Accident on Mount Washington ends with helicopter rescue
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Mount Huntington's West Face by Coley Gentzel
©2005 by AAI. All Rights Reserved
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Warning!! **Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - "Oregon tragedy claims two lives"
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?
Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?
Photos?
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?
Alphabetically?
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?
Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?
4 pages in pdf
What should I eat before a day of alpine climbing?
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?
6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?
pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?
pdf file
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?
Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?
Photos?
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?
Analysis
pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering
4 pdf pages
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
Who is Conrad Messner?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
Can you get me a $30 rebate on your favorite GPS: Garmin's Legend?
pdf form
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?
pdf
What is the UTM Grid?
six pdf pages
Which GPS do you like?
Which Compass do you like?
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?
six pdf pages
Copy and paste these search suggestions for more views of the Cascades
Mount Hood
Mount Jefferson
Three Fingered Jack
Mount Washington
North Sister
Middle Sister
South Sister
Broken Top